Hello, John Talley here with Boats.net. Today we're going to be focusing on
replacing the output shaft seals or the prop shaft on our 25 horsepower Tracker
engine. If you've been keeping up with this video series, you know that I
already did a pressure test and of course it failed at the prop shaft. Now
the kit that I'm going to be using is actually a complete seal kit. It
addresses all the different ins and outs on the entire lower unit. Let's step over
to the table, let me show you which one I'm talking about, and then we'll dive
into this with a few simple tools. So here it is. One part number gets you an
entire seal kit. This gives you all the different gaskets, o-ring, seals,
everything that you're going to need to seal up each individual section of this
particular lower unit. The only special tool you're going to need is to pick up
one of these, because you're gonna have to have this to remove the prop shaft
housing and then more importantly, put it back in and torque it to 80 pounds. Now
as far as any of the regular tools that I'm going to be using, I'll call those
out as I go along. So if you're ready, we can knock this out. Let's go.
Now with the prop out of the way, we just need to reach in here and then there's
three eight millimeter or 5/16 bolts that we need to remove. And then there'll
be a plate, and I think an o-ring that we need to get out of the way. I'm just
going to spray out the housing a little bit, because there's a fair amount of
debris in there and I don't want that to fall inside. There's that ring I was
talking about. Now we can take our special tool and get in there and, shoot,
I don't think we're gonna need a wrench on this. But do you remember, it's
reverse-thread. Tell you what, let's tilt it down. The
good part is that water intrusion does not seem to have damaged anything, so
this is this is a good thing. What we're gonna do next is put the carrier in the
vise and then pry out the seals. Before we do so, let's see, if ya, that reverse gear
is going to want to pop out. Let's go ahead and put it to the side, get it in
the vise and we can knock out the seals.
Yeah. so here's what's gonna happen next. We're gonna go ahead and drive in our
new seals, we're gonna put a little bit of Loctite around the outer edges, and
then drive them into the housing. And now here's the real trick, we're not going to
use the little special tool where it's going to automatically set the depth. But
what we're gonna be after is on the inner one, 22 millimeters or 7/8 of an
inch in, and that's basically an eighth of an inch beyond this edge that I'm
pointing out. Now for your outer one? It's just gonna be ten millimeters in, so
it'll be roughly the same distance inside of this upper lip. So that's what
we're going to be aiming for. Does it have to be dead-on? No, but it needs to be
pretty close. So take your time while you're
doing this, otherwise you're gonna have to pry out your seal buy a new one and
then try again. I don't think you want to do that. So we're about ready to drive
these in, and there are various bearing driver kits out there, but you're going
to be pretty hard pressed to find one that's gonna hit these to exact sizes.
So what am I going to do? Well, I'm going to use a workaround. I am going to use a
couple of impact sockets, because let's face it, these things get beat on a lot
anyway. So we're going to be using a nineteen millimeter for the inner one.
Let's make sure it's going to clear and it does. Get on our Loctite. Get it centered
up. I don't know if you can tell but it's actually sitting in there a little
bit cockeyed. So we need to go to the far side and square it back up. You bring it
down an eighth of an inch past that lower edge and you're going to be on it.
Now we just need to do the same thing for the outer seal, but it's only going
to be ten millimeters down. Go up to a twenty two millimeter. That is it. Now we
want to go ahead and pack the areas in between with a little bit of grease.
Well, that is it for the seal replacement. Now all we have to do is get this out of
the way and put it back together. Now we can get our housing back in. Get our tool
and remember that this is reversed thread and we're gonna put 80 foot
pounds on this. I guarantee you it didn't have 80 when it came off. Next we just
need to get our new o-ring in. And it doesn't say to do this in the book, but I
prefer to do it. Put a light coat, just so it slides into position easier without
getting pinched or torn. Get it seated in. We can get our retaining plate. Go and
get all three of them started, then we'll start tightening them down.
Well alright guys, that's gonna finish up this particular video. What's gonna
happen next? Well I'm gonna dive into those other seals and impellers and
whatnot. And then, maybe we'll find a new propeller to put on this particular
lower unit before we get it remounted. Listen, if you need any parts for your
boat, why don't you come see us at Boats.net and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll
do my best to answer them. We just wanted to say thank you for shopping here with us
at Boats.net and we will see you in the next video. Y'all have a great day.