This training walks you through the pre-trip inspection process.
It's designed to be a good refresher for season veterans and to give new drivers solid foundation
to start a career-long habit.
The goal is to keep you and those you share the road with out of harms way.
A pre-trip inspection is more than a good idea.
It's required.
Before you put a commercial motor vehicle on the road, you need to be satisfied that
it is safe to operate.
There's a common 4 step inspection routine that is recommended for any driver to follow.
It breaks the inspection into logical segments, including under the hood, in cab equipment,
a full walk around of the tractor and trailer and in cab breaks.
Whether you follow this sequence or develop your own you must make sure all components
are covered, and do your inspection the same way every time.
The following is an overview of the pre-trip inspection process.
Step 1: Under the Hood The engine is probably the most expensive
component of the truck, so it's important to make sure it's well cared for.
Pocket the keys, verified that the parking brakes are on, and open the hood.Begin your
inspection on the right side.
Make sure the compartment is in good overall condition, with no obvious issues like leaks.
Make sure oil and coolant fluid levels are between the add and full lines.Check to make
sure hoses are not leaking, worn or loose.
Make sure belts are not worn or loose.
Step 2: In Cab Equipment If everything checks out under the hood, then
move on to the in cab equipment checks.
As you enter the cabin, check to see if the fire extinguisher is the right one for the
cargo being hauled.
Check to see that the windows operate, and glass all around the cab is clean and free
of cracks.
Check the gauges, with the transmission in neutral, press the clutch and start the engine.
Check to see that the oil pressure comes up in a few seconds.
It starts out high and drops as the engine warms up.
Check to see that the primary and secondary air pressure gauges both read low and change
appropriately.
Make sure that the mirrors are clean and in good condition.
Adjust them as needed for proper sight lines and make sure they're tight.
Check to make sure the horn works and the wipers work as well.
Make sure that the steering wheel has the appropriate amount of play.
Free play should be no more than 10% of the wheel diameter.
2 inches or less on a 20 inch wheel.
Check to see that the clutch accelerator brakes and transmission control aren't loose, sticky
or damaged.
Listen for unusual noises that may signal a problem.
The in cab may be the easiest part of a pre-trip inspection, that doesn't mean it's not every
bit as important as every other step.
Step 3: Walk Around The next step in your pre-trip inspection
is the full around of the tractor and trailer.
When performing your walk around be mindful of the suggested 14 point walk around sequence
started in your company driver's manual.
Turn on your lights before you being your walk around inspection.
If you are driving one of our International Model trucks press and hold the work button
for 5 seconds with the engine off and the key turned on.
This feature will cycle through all of the tractor and trailer lights, and will allow
you to perform light checks during your walk around inspection.
If you are not driving a tractor with this feature, you will need to check the lights
before starting your walk around inspection.
Begin your walk around at the front right hand side of the tractor.
Check for any fluid leaks, loose or missing lug nuts.
Check to make sure the tires are properly inflated, check your mirrors and windows are
clean and in good order.
Check to see that the frame rails are free from damage or cracks.
Observe top marker lights.
Check the quarter fender to make sure the load locks are secure.
Check to see that your front drives are in good working order with no loose or missing
lug nuts.
Also check to see that rims are crack and damage free.
Check the 5th wheel, the frame rails and all bolts on the frame for tightness.
Typically loose bolts will bleed rust color which is an indicator that they need repairs.
Then check your cross members and landing gears for damage and secure the crank handle.
Walk down the side of the trailer and check the bottom frame rail for loose or missing
rivets, while also checking all lights.
Be sure that the skirt is secure.
Make sure that the tandem airlines are suspended at least one foot off the ground.
The springs holding these lines are notorious for failing so always check them.
Make sure the rear tire set are in good condition.
Check them the same way as the front tire set.
Make that the rear mug flap is within 6 inches from the ground to the state requirements.
Continue to the rear of the trailer and check the top marker lights, as well as all stop,
turn and tail lights.
Make sure all ID markers and conspicuity tape are present.
Make sure the door frame is in good shape.
If there's any damage make a note.
Make sure that the brake drums, shoe and lining are free from oil and in good condition and
the lining is at least a quarter inch when you look at it from the side.
On the side of the trailer, check top down then under.
Minor surface damage may not be a problem, but anything that goes deep enough to expose
cord may cause the tire to fail early.
Check the left side landing gear for cracks or damage.
And inspect the 5th wheel coupling.
Don't forget to check and see that the tractors taillights are in good working order.
Make sure that the airlines from the tractor to the trailer are connected and that the
lines themselves and the suspension spring are in good condition.
Check to see that the door is functioning properly and that the weather seal is in good
order.
Avoid the potential disastrous effects of failed brakes with a through review.
Step 4: In Cab Brakes Turn the engine on to build up air pressure.
When the vehicle has been idling for a while and the air pressure is over a hundred pounds
per square inch release the parking brake and charge the trailer.
Apply the foot brake, turn off the engine and turn the gauges.
Look to see if the vehicle is leaking more that 4 psi per minute.
3 psi if you only have a tractor.
And watch it for the full 60 seconds.
Pump the air pressure down and notice where the low pressure indicator comes on.
It should activate before 60 psi.
Continue pumping down.
Between 30-40 psi the brake buttons should pop out, switching over from the parking brake
to the emergency brake.
Check to make sure that the parking brakes will hold when the vehicle is in park.
Put it in the lowest gear possible.
Release the tractor brake with the trailer brake still applied, and tug forward gently
to verify the trailer parking brakes will hold.
Gauge the tractor brake and release the trailer brake and do the same thing to verify the
tractor brake will hold.
Roll ahead slowly and step on the foot brake to make sure the service brakes function.
Watch for the vehicle pulling to one side or delayed stopping action.