[RCSparks] - All right!
Round three!
I hope you guys have been enjoying the build so far.
Maybe you're building along with me.
Or maybe you're just watching for fun.
But today, I get to focus on the floorboard right here.
This is only a part of the chassis.
Course the frame rails are still over here in the package,
looking so great.
Every time I do the build video, I make sure everything
is nicely laid out so it's nice and orderly.
This is orderly for me (laughs).
Parts trees laid out.
And of course I gave this a light spray of light gun metal.
Now I did this to kinda help accent
the after market option parts we're gonna put on this,
as well as to help the interior look
a little bit more finished.
I gotta get these particular parts.
So this is why I had spray painted this tree already.
So it's gonna be the emergency brake lever,
the shifter, the center console,
we can see is gonna get installed here.
All right, let's do it.
Now if you're just joining us
this has been an exceptional build already.
Lots of detail, lots of scale realism.
In the last video we saw actual roll up windows,
as well as working windshield wipers,
as well as working door latches,
or at least one on the rear door.
And even though I did pre-paint these,
I'm gonna go in with a small razor blade,
just the corner and trim away that extra plastic.
Can't even see it on the painted piece,
and if it was noticeable, I could get in there
and easily touch it up.
But I always like to have all those little burrs off of,
you know, all the plastic pieces,
just so I don't get a scratch later on.
And it just looks and fits so much nicer, you know.
Okay, so here's that center area.
I expect it to be a little bit more of a tighter fit
because I did paint it already, so it sits there perfectly.
And I'll bust out the magnetic tray,
get a couple of these screws out of bag S (laughs).
That's what I love about magnet trays.
Sometimes I think I spent more time making small models
out of magnetic screws,
than I did actually building the RC itself.
Okay, and then comes the linkage on the side.
So I'm gonna go ahead and use that same screw.
Then the center prindle.
Yeah, prindle.
Okay.
Over, and this goes through.
And it goes into two tabs that are right on the front.
You can see I'll open this up,
get that light a little better for ya.
And it slides right into the tab like that.
Then you push this down and underneath,
backup the camera.
Underneath there is a screw,
right down here from your D bag.
Insert D bag joke now (laughs).
I just got screwed by the D bag.
Okay, so down from that, of course,
are these two holes right here.
They're a little bit small for these two posts,
so I'm gonna go ahead and hand drill it with this small bit.
That way I can ensure that there's accuracy,
and it's just a small amount of material that I'm removing.
Could be a little bit bigger but, there.
Pops into place, no problem.
See, it's the added paint I added on here of course
makes it thicker for that shifter.
Turn it around a little bit,
you can see the post spots for the handbrake.
Hopefully I don't break the handbrake.
There, popped in.
Beautiful, everything is in there nice and snug now.
And just a small bit of model glue on the end here.
Getting that shifter down into its final resting spot.
And what you're seeing me use is actually Shoe Goo,
which is a rubberized glue.
That way I don't have any CA fumes
or any kind of issues like that reacting with the paint.
And then enter the ultra high torque mini servo,
well, micro servo I guess I should say.
This is 4.3 kilograms.
On the back here you can also see 13 grams, an analog servo.
It's got a bit of a finger print on there because
I just had it opened and sprayed it with conformal coating
to help waterproof this or make it more water resistant.
I can never make the motor inside resistant
to rusting if it sees water,
but at least I've protected the microchip.
Now where this goes is, right in front
of these two post holes, right there.
Here is the bracket and I'm using bag E, Bag E.
So like that and then just two screws
right into the post holes.
So there you go.
Now you're looking at the complete setup.
I got the horn on there,
but I'm not gonna sinch up this linkage yet,
until I plug everything in and I can get this servo
into the neutral range.
But in theory, what's gonna happen is,
as that moves back and forth,
got a little bit of paint on there.
I should have taken that paint off the roller,
but it's really not that bad.
That servo's gonna be plenty strong
to move that shifter back and forth.
Cool, huh?
So once that's hooked up and everything's done,
go over to the garbage where you threw out that piece
of clear plastic that you thought was garbage, from the kit,
and then get out the nifty RCSparks decal sheet.
And you'll notice right above, ta-daa,
nav system, little clock radio, as well as some vents
and of course the Capo radio as well as the heating system.
Peel this decal off.
Take the outside layering of this plastic
and peel that off as well.
Stick the decals right to the plastic.
But first, what I'm gonna do is spray some Windex on here,
just so I can help, either Windex or hairspray,
which will help keep the air bubbles out
from underneath the decal.
Then when it dries, everything is perfect.
Gonna take that.
Peel that decal off the sheet,
and stick it right to this plastic piece.
I'm a little off, that's okay.
I'm just gonna squeeze all that Windex out.
I could use a credit card to do this if I wanted.
But you'll see that there's absolutely zero bubbles
in that decal sheet now.
No rippling at all.
And then you wanna cut out every piece from the plastic.
And ba-bam!
Look at this!
Pre-painted, yes I did get the eastern version.
I have pre-painted this mold,
which is all coinciding with the light gun metal that I did
with the center console and the extra accent pieces.
And what you're gonna see here
are individual slots for these pieces to fit into.
So for example, the clock is gonna
be going on inside like this.
This is why you're trimming them and using an adhesive
to get those to stay in place.
Okay, these are all in place.
I'll flip it over, you can see, look at that.
The console looks fantastic.
Now there is a light kit that comes in the US version.
I'm gonna leave a website
in the video description box down below.
If you're looking to get one of these
or other Capo products, it's from my good friend Kye.
Kye is a great supplier out of Hong Kong, of course.
Does great work with Capo as well.
Let's have a look at the light kit.
A little side job here.
Wow, that is a lot to work with.
So this is the Capo light controller.
I have one of these in my JKMAX.
That's why you never really see my JKMAX
in deep water and stuff because there is a lot
of expensive and very precise electronics on the inside,
even though you have seen me splash around in the water.
(laughs)
Now for ease of use, I'm gonna take this part out.
This is where I unplug this, gently.
This is the only piece I need for the dash at the moment.
This is gonna be for the center console.
And this one is gonna be behind the cluster.
Okay, so the rectangle light plate gets put on to
the back of the dash, and then you got this bracket.
This bracket is actually almost life size to the computer.
With a couple of D bag screws,
you too can get your light kit installed properly.
So Capo actually gives you three different choices
of color and style of instrument cluster.
Look at that.
So if you want an orange interior
with all the different lights down below,
if you want red or if you want clear, you can choose it.
All you have to do is cut it out
and then peel back the protective layer.
Yeah, three different chances to screw up your cutting.
(laughs)
That one's pretty good actually.
I think I nailed it.
Okay, then once I have that adhesive in place,
a little bit more Shoe Goo for me there
is gonna keep it done.
You'll see this three LED cluster fits onto these two posts.
Once that's screwed in place you can move on.
Then a small plastic piece off the tree.
Another screw with bag D.
And then enter in another micro servo,
with another fingerprint from the conformal coating
and my water proofing.
I have a feeling somebody will be stealing this rig from me
and setting me up for a crime of some sort.
(siren wails)
What's interesting about the servo though
is you need to attach on the servo horn, you'll see here,
two small screws and this steering shaft (laughs).
Then, trim everything.
But remember you wanna make sure to have your servo
in the neutral position before you power everything up,
because I could take these two screws off right now
and screw this to the top of the horn,
but there's really no point until I get there
and know where everything is.
That, and I don't really think it's gonna be a big deal.
So you can see I've trimmed all the way around
and I'm gonna mount up the servo.
Now you can see that little piece I put on the side there
is actually a mount for the screw.
Got it flipped over, installed one shifter.
Then gonna put the other one in just by sliding it in.
That dash is really looking good now, hey?
Just like that.
And of course, the finishing piece, the Capo steering wheel.
Beautiful.
Now on these big ole parts trees,
we covered this in the last video,
there are two of them that are identical.
I ended up getting both of these long pieces off of here.
And these are very thick pieces so you wanna make sure
that if you're threading along with me,
make sure to tap these very slowly to avoid damaging them.
You don't want these to kinda twist or break out.
I haven't seen any of them do it yet,
but they do have a warning in the video.
What am I talking about?
You can see on the dash they get installed on either side.
And these screws that go into these forks,
it's almost like they needed a separate set of washers,
in between the plastic forks and the screw,
if I can see it there, cause it wants to spread them apart.
But they have these floor plates that you install
that just clicks into the side, on either side,
and then you use this cross brace to screw two through
to make it into one solid unit.
And there you have the complete dash assembly.
I can take this piece, turn it around,
drop it right into these holes.
Let me show you here, if I can get you in close enough.
Yeah ,right there.
Drop it right into the hole, on either side.
Getting the wires out of the way.
And done.
Then what I wanna do is drop four screws,
one, two, three, four.
And there is a cool little saying on here.
Look at this.
Upon the rock
I will build my world (laughs).
Capo Racing.
Two screws for the post, so one here,
and of course one right down at the bottom.
Now that's all installed.
Look at this.
Ta-daa!
You must be thinking this video is incredibly slow
because we haven't really got a lot done today,
but I gotta tell ya, the amount of detail on this
is making it worth it for me.
I'm loving this build!
So here is the final piece of today's build video.
A seat.
Look how huge it is, how it just sits in my hand.
That is no 10th scale seat, my friends.
Now why would I even be bothering speaking about a seat?
How boring.
We've all seen plastic seats before.
They go up and down.
That's nothing new.
In fact, this might be something new.
How about an adjustable head rest.
That's kinda cool, but it's not worth mentioning is it?
Even though this has to be assembled
and two of them have to be done,
you just make them adjustable right there with that screw.
But then what's this piece underneath?
What is that?
In a real car, this would be a seat adjuster.
You're kidding me!
Look at this, right here.
Adjustment places for your seat.
Also screw areas for washers and screws.
Let me install it and show you.
Here I am underneath.
I've flipped it upside down
and installed eight screws and washers.
Rolling it back over.
Look at this.
Now the interior is completed.
Wow!
Let me move around this seat, so I can show you.
I'll get you down low,
right there.
So you take up, and you can slide the seat forward.
Then you can slide it back as far as you want.
But lift it up to slide it forward.
So whatever figure you have in there,
now it's completely adjustable.
Ba-boom!
Capo does it again my friends!
Whaddya think?
What a crazy build, hey?
A lot of you I read in the last comment section,
you're like, "I am way too intimidated.
This is way too detailed for me to build,
but I love watching you build it."
And I don't want you guys to be intimidated.
In fact, you guys even have
a helpful RCSparks video to follow along with now.
So if I can do this guys, don't worry, you can too.
It's definitely bang for your buck.
I'm loving this build so much.
Have you guys made it to the end of the video?
Comment down below.
Let me know if you're watching right now.
Smash that like button
for all these different scale features that you're seeing on
the SIXER 1 from Capo Racing and let me know.
Do you watch the whole build video?
Or do you skip to the end just to see the product
or some derivative of that?
Let me know guys, we'll see you in
the next episode of RC Adventures.
Now get outside and enjoy the hobby of RC.
It is freaking awesome.