For doing faceplate turning on here, I want the faceplate
permanently fixed to the shaft, which means I need
another drive shaft, and I've made one here already,
and this one is a bit bigger to give me more support
for the faceplate, but that means I also need
bigger bearing blocks, which I could swap these
out by just taking out the wood screws here, but it's not ideal,
so I just made a whole other headstock to go on here.
And, on this headstock, instead of having wood screws here,
I'm gonna use some hanger bolts, which screw into here,
and they have a machine screw thread up here here, which doesn't wear out.
Now, if you don't have hanger bolts, like this,
you can just use pieces of threaded rod, and just make sure
it's a tight fit, and screw that thread in there,
add a bit of wood glue, and that gives you plenty of hold.
I still need to keep the shaft from sliding side to side,
so I've got a block that screws onto here.
So, with my new 16 millimeter shaft, and the pulleys turned,
I'm getting to the point that I've been procrastinating about,
and that is making a four jaw chuck
and here's the templates that I've printed out for that.
Now I need to drill some holes in here for some
threaded rod to go in, like this, and to get the
holes consistent and precise, I made this little guide
to go in here.
Now, I don't normally like using spade bits cause they're
not that precise, but with this one, I've ground the edges
down just a little bit, to give me just the right kind of fit
on my shaft.
Now I need to mount this on the end of a shaft
and I figure another piece of wood like this
would be best to put that on there.
And, now if I just drive that in there to see if I can
get that nice and precise.
Now, to get some glue in there to help bond that
together.
I've been gluing this together on just a spare piece of shaft
just to make sure the holes are lined up,
but now I need to use a gear puller to actually
get it off. I sized those holes
a little bit too small, the fit is too tight.
I'm gonna try to sand that hole a little bit,
just to make that fit a little bit easier.
So, I have been thinking of using a key weight to lock
it on there but I think a pin is better,
so here I'm drilling a hole through the shaft.
I had to switch to an extra long drill bit, to get that
hole through to the other side.
Now, the hole I drilled is a little bit off center,
so I widened the holes a bit
and usually what I do is I
hit that hole in here a little bit off center too
so I try to put them on there so they match,
but this one seems to be unusually centered.
Now, to make sure I can line these holes up
I'm just gonna draw a line that lines up with the hole here.
And, it looks like I sanded it enough because
I can just force this on there with my hand now.
I put the pin through here.
So, that's on there with, I think,
an acceptable amount of wobble.
Now I need to take these pieces of threaded rod
and screw them in here, making sure they're parallel
and for that I'm just gonna use this little block
that I use for drilling the holes, to get them lined up
and to make sure they're gonna stick in there really good,
I'm just gonna put some wood glue on the end here,
to essential glue them into the hole.
The wood glue, of course, doesn't stick very well
to the metal, but as long as it sticks to the wood,
the screw itself is gonna hold it in there.
The jaws themselves for my chuck are just gonna be
little pieces of Baltic birch plywood with
a notch on either side.
Now, these jaws are designed to grab a dovetail
on the bottom of the work piece, but to
turn this dovetail on here, first I need to mount
the work piece on a faceplate, and I'll make that next.
I am pressing a shaft through both disks to make sure
I'll have them properly aligned when I glue them together.
I can't quite make it all the way to the other side
with this right sized drill,
but I have a thinner drill that is extra-long,
and I can use that to extend the pilot hole to the other side.
And, now I can use the right size drill to come in
from the other side. I'm drilling holes
in the faceplate to allow me to mount the stock
on it later.
With the faceplate on this end the chuck on the other end,
I really can't move either of them to tighten that up
so I need to make a spacer that's about this thick
to go in here.
One thing I still need to do, is to cut a slant into here
so they can grab a dovetail on the bottom of whatever
I've turned, and I'm just gonna use the lathe itself.
I put a spacer in here to put these all the way out
and then I'll just turn that slot in there.
Hopefully that will compensate for any wobble
in the chuck, but I just now have to make sure
that I'll always put these on the same way.
I've been having second thoughts about whether making
a chuck like this is a good idea, because if any of
these things comes loose, or the threaded rod comes out,
it's just gonna come flying in your face, so
it's kind of a dangerous thing to make.
Having said that, I did use a chuck to make this bowl and I
was actually kind of surprised that it actually worked.
And, I'll cover that in a separate video.