Rev up your engines, manaco says scotty did you ever think about spraying silicone in
an air filter to catch more dirt, no don't ever that ever, because silicone is death
to your oxygen sensor system and if you spray silicone in the engine and it sucking it in,
it can destroy your oxygen sensors and ruin your catalytic converter, silicone is death
to that so don't ever do that, in the old days when we had carb cars yeah go ahead if
you want, but not with modern cars with oxygen sensors and electronic MAF sensors you can
ruin stuff, don't do that, that's a bad thing in any modern car, unless you got like a 67
rebel the guy was talking about earlier go right ahead then,
munez says scotty I got an 02 hyundai sonata, the car shakes a lot whenever I turn on the
heat any advice, two things, one have the battery and alternator load tested, if either
of them are weak and places like autozone do it for free, it can do that, but the other
thing as nutty as it sounds is, have your ac compressor checked, because when you turn
your heat on in a lot of modern cars, it also turns on the ac compressor because that's
dry air, and the combo of your heat and ac gives you hot dry air, cuz the heat is a lot
hotter than the ac is cold, and if your ac compressor isn't going to come on when you
turn it on it's really going to make it shake more, cali king says hey scotty, what do you
think about a 2004 acura rsx base model, would really appreciate your opinion, those were
really well made vehicles when their new, I get people that buy them new and they love
them, but the problem is that thing is 15 years old now, as they age their transmissions,
their honda products, get weak and the parts for them are more expensive than the honda
parts even though it's the same company because that's the luxury version, just like lexus
parts cost more than toyota parts, so they are well made vehicles, but when they do get
old and they start to wear out, they get to be very expensive to repair, I have customers
that buy used ones with lower mileage and loved them, but I also had customers buy them
used with high mileage and they were nothing but money pits and they hated the cars in
the long run so that you got to think about, evandro says scotty I got a 1998 suburban
k2500 with a 5.7 v8 with 150,000 miles, love the car and want to keep it forever, should
I replace the factory fuel pump before it goes out thanks, yeah that would be a good
idea, I mean what it's 21 years old and use the OEM don't change it, the advantage of
doing that is, that thing has a huge gas tank, you got to drop the gas tank, and if you run
out of fuel, it's full of gas and the pump kicks out and won't run anymore you got to
get all that gas out which is a pain in the butt, so now wait until it's almost out of
gas then change the fuel pump and it's a much easier job to do, so I'd do that now when
you're almost out of gas, then you wouldn't have to think about it for a long time and
do use a factory pump, cuz those aftermarket Chinese made ones are junk you don't want
one of them, mainly auto says scotty I got a 1967 amc rebel,
whoa the old days, right now it won't crank and the dash lights won't come on, the headlights
and dome lights still come on, no fried wires, any idea, ok of course you got to check the
battery, make sure you got a fully charged battery, so if the dash lights don't come
on check the ignition switch first, because it's got to send power through and if you
turn the key on and the dash lights don't come on you've lost power somewhere, so start
checking from the battery to the ignition switch and the ignition switch on, it could
just be a bad ignition switch, pray it's that simple, that's an old car and a kind of cool
cars, so yeah keep it going and you got a short somewhere get under the dash there and
start checking with a meter to see where power is lost,
nick says I have a 01 mustang gt, it misfires only in gear and under load, and I have a
p1132 code in bank 1, only I have new oxygen sensors and the ect and fuel injectors are
working, any thoughts on the fix, under load are the hardest ones to figure out, what you
want to do if find a guy like me who's got a dealer level scan tool, I have a special
computer I get from a guy in New Mexico who makes them, all I have to do is drive it 5
minutes in first gear to second gear at full rpm and when I come back it gives me green,
yellow, and red notifications, and then I start looking at the yellow and red and see
what data is off and it will show all kinds of things, are the cats working, are the oxygen
sensors working, you want to pay somebody at least to do that, I do it on people's cars
I charge them $100, and it's well worth the $100 they spend to get a true check of what's
going to go under load, because it's got to be tested under load and that machine is made
just for testing it under load, so if you never want to miss another one of my new car
repair videos, remember to ring that bell!