Hi I'm Vance, and welcome to Repair and Replace.
Conventional stoves use coiled heating elements which are exposed on the cooktop.
If one of the burners is not heating up,
then it could be a faulty element, damaged wires, or a faulty switch.
Each component can be easily tested for continuity with a multimeter.
A continuity test will determine if there's a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
Without continuity the burner will not heat up.
In this episode, first we'll learn how it all works, then we'll test the heating element.
Finally, we'll test the heat switch and the wires through the back of the oven.
Let's get started.
Electric stoves are pretty simple at a base level.
When electricity passes through the heating
element the resistance in the material generates heat.
Each burner is on a separate circuit, and is controlled by an infinite heat switch.
When you turn the dial
the switch closes, letting 120 volts travel through both sides of the element.
This provides the necessary 240 volts.
One side of the switch will remain closed, which will power the cooktop indicator light.
The other side of the switch will open and disconnect power once the element heats up.
It will cycle on and off to maintain the set level of heat.
Over time the contacts can warp or might not close properly.
As well damaged wires or a faulty receptacle can also prevent the element from receiving power.
Additionally, heating elements can burn out with normal use.
This is not always visible so it's best to do a continuity test.
To begin you might need a screwdriver, a nut driver, gloves, and a multimeter.
If you need a new surface element or switch,
then you can enter your model number on the AMRE Supply website.
From there you'll see a parts breakdown, with the exact replacement parts listed for your model.
First lift up the element and remove it.
Now check the terminals.
If they are covered in a black soot, then clean the terminals
If the terminals look pitted or damaged, then it's best to replace the element.
Blackened terminals are also a sign that the receptacle is worn out.
You can see how to replace the receptacle in the video linked below.
One quick way to test the element is to swap it with another one.
If the second element works in this receptacle, then you know that the original was faulty.
Now if the second element doesn't heat up,
then it's likely a problem with the switch or the wiring.
To be certain that the element has failed, you could also do a continuity test.
Set your multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Now touch the probes to each terminal.
If the element is good, it'll have a resistance of around 20 to 45 ohms.
Now if there is no reading and no continuity,
or if the resistance is far outside of that range, then replace the element.
If the element is good, then plug it back in, and move on to the next tests.
Always be safe, and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges, it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room, go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord.
Now slide the range all the way out so you have plenty of room to work.
To test the heat switch and the wires you'll have to remove the back panel.
Some models have a small panel near the top, and a larger panel near the bottom.
Now remove the screws.
The panel will likely be sitting on several hooks, simply lift up to remove the panel.
At the back of the stove locate the infinite heat switch.
To remember where each wire goes, it's best to take a picture for reference.
Now disconnect the wires.
On the switch you should see a few terminals
marked L for line, H for heater, and P for the indicator light.
Reach to the front, and turn the dial to any heat setting.
Now check for continuity between the L1 and H1 terminals.
The multimeter should show a reading between 0 and 1 ohm.
Now test between L2 and H2.
If there is no reading and no continuity during either test,
then the switch has failed and will need to be replaced.
If both tests passed, then it's not a problem with the switch.
Through the back we can test the wires receptacle and heating element all at the same time.
Locate the wires that were connected to the H1 and H2 terminals.
They are usually the same color.
Now test the wires for continuity,
you should get the same resistance as when you tested the element.
If there is no continuity, the problem is likely with the receptacle or the wiring.
At this point it's best to replace the receptacle.
Some receptacle kits include the full length of wire, while other kits have short wires.
Most problems with the wires happen close to the receptacle,
so using a kit with short wires should fix the problem.
You can see more in the video linked below.
Align the back panel, and replace the screws.
Now plug in the cord, and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your stove.
For more troubleshooting videos on water heaters,
furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help you can call or visit an AMRE location to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.