Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to do an oil change on our 2008 Kawasaki KLR 650R.
Pretty simple procedure.
Just need to warm it up, go ahead and drop the oil, change out the filter, and get it
refilled.
So, let me get her started up and I'll show you how to get it done.
Alright guys, basically this is going to be a skill level one, so it's not going to be
that complicated.
As far as the tools you're going to need, just going to need a 17mm socket, an 8mm socket,
a couple of different ratchets, a flat-blade screwdriver, just a pair of pliers, and most
importantly, you want a decent torque wrench so you don't strip out that oil drain plug.
As far as the parts go, why don't you check out our diagrams and that'll show you exactly
where everything is located and also give you a list of what you need to order.
Once you've got your tools and your parts together, we can get started.
Alright, we've got her warmed up, so let's go ahead and take this fill cap off and then
we'll get the oil drained out.
It's a 17mm about center of the engine toward the back.
I always like to start with a clean drain pan because if there is something going wrong
in the engine, your oil is a great indicator of that.
If it has kind of a gold tint to it when you're draining it, it usually indicated some kind
of bearing issue.
But this oil actually looks pretty good.
It probably could have gone a little bit further.
The recommended oil change interval on these is about 6000 miles.
I prefer to do it about every five thousand, mainly because it's just easier to keep up
with in increments of five, or at least it is for me.
Alright, once that finishes up, we'll go ahead and replace the drain plug.
Kawasaki actually recommends that you replace this little crush washer.
The torque setting on our drain bolt is 21 foot-pounds.
I can usually do this without a torque wrench, but if you're not really comfortable with
just guessing so to speak, I suggest you get yourself a torque wrench because the last
thing you want to do is strip out a drain bolt because that means A) you either have
to do a Time-Sert and put another one in there ir worse than that, replace your cases.
So, I'd rather invest in a toque wrench instead of a set of cases.
Alright, next, let's go ahead and turn our attention to the oil filter housing.
And it's just held in place-- the cover at least-- by a couple of 8mm.
Alright, down at the bottom there's a little tab that sticks out.
Get your screwdriver in there, kind of wiggle it back and forth to bring it out.
Be careful when you're doing this, you don't want to break off any part of your cover here.
There we go.
That O-ring looks good.
Alright, let's go ahead and get that filter out.
I want you to take note that there's an actual section of what they call the bypass valve
that has this little step section.
When you put it back together, you need to make sure that that end goes in first.
Alright, go ahead and insert this back in our filter or our new one rather.
Stepped section is going into the machine.
Let's go ahead and get our cover back on.
Alright, they're lined up correctly.
Let's get them snugged back down.
Alright next, we just need to refill it.
Alright according to the manual it holds a little over two and a half quarts, so we can
safely go ahead and pour in two then I'm going to crank it up for a few seconds, let it get
circulating, and then set the level.
Alright, we've got two quarts in, and what we're going to do is crank it up and just
let it idle for just a few seconds because basically we just need to fill in the voids
around the new oil filter and whatnot because see-- if you look at it right now it would
think "alright, it's ready to go."
But I know it's still a half a quart low.
So, let's crank it up and then set the level.
Alright after you run it for a few minutes make sure you let it settle for two to three
minutes and then we can go ahead and set that level.
As you can see our level is right there at the moment, so let's start pouring it in--
slowly.
And that's about where you want it.
It's a little over half way in between the two marks, and sure enough that was roughly
another right at about a half a quart.
Go ahead and put our fill cap back on.
And that pretty much wraps this one up.
The only thing let now is just to take the oil over to a recycler so it can be disposed
of properly.
Well listen, if you need any of the parts that we used on this, why don't you come see
us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, just leave them in the section below and I'll do
my best to answer them.
Until next time, we just want to say thanks for watching.