man that was the toughest seal ever look at that thing
hey guys welcome back to the channel so if you've been following my build recently on
the sport cross i dropped the transmission to do the rear main seal so now that i've got the
transmission out i'm gonna go ahead and clean this thing up this thing's got 18 years worth of grease
and crap all over it and after that i'm going to actually change the front and back seal it's going
to be a quick video just doing those two things on it and then once i'm done with that i'm actually
gonna show you guys how i'm gonna put this thing back in by myself in the garage so stay tuned
so after the degrease and pressure clean on this baby look how brand speaking new it
looks compared to that oily mess i had before you know you got all the aluminum right now which is
mostly just oxidation on it but the bell housing itself was a little bit shinier
than the rest of the transmission got all the grease and dirt and everything out of
everywhere this thing had like grease inside the plugs and dirt and everything else inside
the plug so i got all that out what i'm going to do now i'm going to pull the seal out of the
the output shaft i'm about to pull the torque converter out and it's probably going to leak
some oil when i do that to change the seal between the torque converter and the input shaft so we'll
go ahead and do that now so as far as seals go for this i decided to go with aftermarket this thing
i think i paid less than ten dollars for both of these shipped to the my door so this one is a
skf i got it from rock auto and it it's basically just a copy of the knock what comes with the car
so this one's made by tto according to that symbol on there and the part number on it is looks like
e868 so that's the output shaft this is the input shaft seal so this one is a beck and arnley
and beck and arnold usually they usually just repackage actually oem stuff so i've heard people
order this stuff and they actually got knock seals and you know other name brand seals that
we get from the factory this one doesn't really have any markings on it it does look like a knock
as far as the color and the design but there's no markings on it to indicate whether it's a
knock brand or any other oem brand that we know of but either way i'm not investing too much in
this transmission just because i know i'm going to convert to manual within the next year or so so
i just want to change these seals in case there's any leaks on them and it was like ten dollars for
just a little bit of insurance go ahead and pull this torque converter out
so you should be able to pop it out just be prepared for oil to bleak out of it
all right so we look in the input shaft here you got the seal it's got a lot of grease and
crap all around it kind of built up and remember that inspection cover was missing on this for a
while so gathered all this grime and grease and sand in here from all that driving so i'm going to
clean that off with some brake parts cleaner now just to get it cleaned up so i can reassemble this
nice and cleanly remember right now you're actually exposed to the inside of the transmission
so try not to get too much stuff inside there when you're cleaning yours out
oh yeah this baby cleans up really nicely with that brake parts cleaner so i got everything
nice and clean the seal is nice and clean again the oem seal on here is a knock bh
echo e so that's the seal that it comes with so now i'm gonna pull it out since this one you
have access to it without really messing up the shaft i'm gonna try to get something in here and
see if i can pry it out from the back if not i just go with my drill method where i drill the
metal part here and i stick a screw in and pop it out but i'll try like a pick or pry tool before i
get to that part so i found this little piece of metal and i just bent the ends to a little
hook which i can actually just tuck into here right behind the seal and then try to pull it out
it's pretty in there got the spring to seal out
all right i think i want to try the drill method in my screw method
i'll go ahead and screw it or drill it make sure you don't slip
hmm so i was able to just wedge the block right here against the bell housing and
then get some leverage on my hammer and just try to pop it out there it goes bam
so yeah that guy comes out pretty easily there so yeah you got you see that seal i had popped
that spring earlier so we'll go ahead and get the other one and kind of compare it and put it back
in open this guy up so yeah the new seals uh the orange material so it's got the same
tto e584 so it's the same brand as that other seal i got the skf1 but it's made by the same company
tto so this one's like i said earlier that's the knot so as far as the height so the same height
obviously the same diameter is made for this so everything looks the same as far as the build goes
we'll go ahead what i'm going to use is i'm going to use this 36 millimeter deep socket
that i had for my you know taking off axles and stuff it actually fits perfectly into here and
it actually goes it stops right before it gets flush the only thing is maybe just put some lube
i just put some of that transmission fluid around the edge just to kind of get it into there i
should pack it right now since it's a little bit easier so i'm going to pack it with some
molle grease i've been packing my other seals with molly grease here put a little bit
on the inside lip we put the torque converter back in it has something to ride on
go ahead line this up
i just want to tap it in a little get it
started so get it square get your socket square right under there and just start tapping it in
when you mount the seal in there you got to make sure when you're hammering in that you get it
flush with that outer rim of the seat you don't want to hammer in too far where it's
going to get inside or get stuck or not straight put the torque converter back in
kind of wipe wipe this thing down get some of the grease and dirt off of the back of
it to make sure the shaft is clean back in here this thing has this part so i don't know if uh
it needs to line up inside or it just kind of sits in there but we'll just see how it fits
yeah bounce into place i did lose a little bit of [ __ ] fluid right there so i got to wipe that up
and uh we'll start on the back side now so we'll pop this thing off back here
wipe the excess crack from around here
so another knock seal it's a b8 20 5 1 echo so i'm gonna just go ahead and
drill it out like i did the other side just to make my life easier this is a method i know works
up
man that was the toughest seal ever look at that thing uh i knew it was gonna be a tough one but
i didn't think it was gonna be this bad where basically destroyed it just had to bend it to
get a plier in there luckily i didn't really damage anything in there most of this is just
cosmetic out here which doesn't really matter this is just the kind of the
shield for the input shaft but yeah i'm just going to clean it up now put the new sealant
found this little piece of one and a quarter inch you probably
if you had a one and a half inches be better because you want to hit it this one's like a
little bit inside the seal you want to hit it a little bit outside the seal just to get it
but since this one was kind of recessed it probably needs to go in a little deeper
easily get all the sides in
so you guys look inside there that's how it's supposed to look at this particular one it doesn't
sit flush with the ring around it or the seat it goes in pretty recess so that's about where i had
found the oem one that took me forever to get out so i'm pretty confident that's gonna hold
pretty well and since this is mostly transmission fluid and it's probably not under high pressure
on this end or on the other end it shouldn't be a big problem with any leaks or anything so
pretty good here hey guys thanks for sticking around all the way to the end of this video
as you can see what i thought was going to be an easy seal replacement on at least the output
side ended up being a lot more work than we thought it was going to be i mean that
seal is in there and there's really no way to wedge it out without a proper seal tool i think
even the ones that they sell at harbor freight which is like a big little hammer pry bar thing
it's not gonna work you're gonna have to get that one it's like a 15 one that kind of hooks around
the lip of the seal and then it has like a little thing spacer that you can pop it out and that's
probably the best way to pop that last one out on the back side the front one was pretty easy that
one came off and came on pretty easily as you can tell so that that wasn't a real big issue
it was really the back one and then that one yeah once we hammered it in it wasn't that bad either
if you guys like this video give it a thumbs up if you found it useful if you haven't subscribed to
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where i'm gonna end up trying to put this in by myself anyways thanks for watching guys
you