Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to replace the brake shoes on our Honda 2003 Rancher
350 2-wheel drive manual shift.
Pretty simple to do.
When you order the kit from Honda, they actually send you the shoes along with all these little
bits that you're going to need to rebuild it properly.
So, let me get this thing lifted up in the air, the front tires off, and I'll show you
how to get it done.
Alright guys, this is going to be a skill level one, but it is at the top of the scale
for that skill level one, so you really need to pay attention to how things come apart
so you can get them put back together correctly.
As far as the tools that you're going to need, just going to need a 27 and a 17 mm socket,
a decent torque wrench.
You may or may not need a breaker bar.
Other than that you just need a flat-blade screwdriver, a decent pair of needlenose pliers,
a wire brush, and just a soft-blow hammer.
Now as far as the drawings, if you would reference those.
That'll give you a better picture of how everything goes together because there are a lot of little
bits and pieces that have a certain way that they have to go back together.
So, reference that if you can't follow along in the video.
As far as the parts, Honda sells this as a kit, which includes the shoes for both sides
as well as the springs and the different pins.
Everything that you're going to need to get the entire project done.
So, once you have all of that together, I can show you how to get it done.
Alright, we've got our tire off, let's go ahead and get this cotter pin out.
And just initially looking at this, it looks like somebody has already been into this one
and done some work, so they may be good to go without any problem.
But I'm still going to open it up to show you how to do it.
Alright, it's going to be a 27mm.
Use this impact to knock it off.
Alright I've pulled this little plug here and what that does is it opens up-- if you've
got the hub in the right area-- is the piston that's in there.
There's actually two of them.
And what we're going to do is bring those back in and that should give us enough room
to pull the drum off.
And I'll show you what I'm talking about once we get it removed.
We're going to ratchet these back to their closed position.
And the other one's down here.
Alright, let's pull our hub and see what we've got in there.
Alright, she is off.
Now I can show you what we were doing.
Taking these adjustments and running then all the way in.
So in other words we're taking this and we're prying against that outside edge and we're
forcing it in-- if you were looking down on it-- a clockwise direction and we were doing
the same thing down there.
What that did is that shortened up our distance, that releases the tension on the-- or the
adjustment on the pads themselves, and that allows for the hub to get taken off.
Alright, to finish breaking this down, what you do is actually these little clips, push
in on them, kinda get things broken loose, then you can grab the pin and turn it.
Now, the clip comes off.
Do the same thing for the bottom: push it, break it loose, if it's corroded like this
was, turn it, and then your clip can come off.
Alright, at this point, you can pretty much just lift up on them and then lift them off
of these little cylinders that actually, you know, push out on them.
Alright, so what's next?
Well, it doesn't look too awfully bad in here but it is a little crunchy.
So what we're going to do is go ahead and clean this up.
Clean up this hub and you can see this surface here where the actual brake shoes go against
this drum.
All you're wanting to do is just clean up the surface.
If you've worn down your shoes to the point where it's just metal, and it's got this surface
all scarred up, well you probably need to go ahead and replace it.
That's not what happened in this case, it just has a bit of an edge on the inside and
the outside, so I just want to knock that off to where it's got a clean surface to start
with.
Once you finish knocking down those ridges, just finish it up with some brake cleaner.
One little note: however you were getting that out, whether it be with a wire brush
or a piece of sandpaper, don't breathe the dust.
I'm pretty sure brake dust is not good for you.
So, don't do it.
What I'm doing right here guys is I'm cleaning out the seal, getting all the dirt and everything
out because when we go to put it back together, we're actually going to put a layer of grease
on both those two cavities.
That'll keep it from prematurely wearing and will also help it seal and keep mud, dirt,
and water out of the housing.
This all doesn't have to be perfect, but the less contaminants you have in there the better.
Alright, let's go ahead and get our shoes built up before we put them up there.
Alright what we want to do is lay them with the numbers or letters that are printed, we
want that facing up towards us because that's going to end up going to the inside.
So, get your spring part and you want it to go on that furthest point here.
And then the other end goes to that hole right there.
And do the same thing for the other side.
Now, when you raise it up here you want to make sure the spring is away from the adjuster
on both sides.
So see how this long section without the spring is near this one?
With hat piston and that one over there?
Now, we can go ahead and lay it in and then just stretch it down and get all four edges
of the brake shoe in those slots.
That's the way it should look when you've got it on properly.
Alright, now we can go ahead and put the retention spring in.
Make sure you've got that little rubber grommet inside the back plane in correctly.
So you want to put that pin back through.
You want it laying flat like there.
Then you take this and you want it to face towards the end without the spring.
So you push that down, you reach in, and turn.
And that'll hold it in place.
Now we just need to do the same thing for the pin on the bottom.
Get that centered, and we're good to go.
We should be able to just put our drum back on, but before you do that, clean off the
spindle and there's an O-ring at the end of the spindle right here.
You want to make sure that's still in good shape.
A little layer of grease all over that spindle.
Alright, before you get the hub on there, make sure your pads are lined up.
There's an outer edge o this back plane, just eyeball it the best you can-- top and bottom
so that they're centered.
And let's see if she goes on.
There she is.
Now since we've got new brake pads on there, we can pretty much leave those adjusters where
they are.
As the pads start to wear, you'd want to come around and do a couple of clicks on either
one and get a little more life out of them as you're going through the entire span that
they can be used.
Alright, go ahead and get this little dirt and dust plug back in.
Now we need to get our axle nut on.
Alright, we're going to torque this to 58 pounds, and when you torque it you need to
then look and make sure you can get the cotter pin shot through either this direction or
this direction.
Now if it doesn't line up on either one, it's okay to put a little bit more on it to get
it to where the cotter pin can go through.
You don't want to back it off because you want at least 58 pounds on it.
There.
The way I usually do it is one is usually a little bit longer that the other.
I usually put the shorter of the two toward the inside and the longer one on the outside.
Well alright guys, that pretty much wraps up this side of the machine.
I basically need to go over to the other side and do the exact same things because it is
a mirror image and it's exactly the same process.
Well listen if you need any of the parts that we used to do this, why don't you find us
at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll do my best
to answer them.
And until next time, we just want to say thanks for watching.