My name is Sophie Baverstock, and this is Do It Like i-D.
Today, I’m going to teach you how to do the make-up look
from the spring 2011 Exhibitionist issue of Anja Rubik.
I’m going to be using quite a mattifying foundation
just because I’ve put on quite a lot of moisturiser,
and her skin is quite dewy in the photo,
so I want to make sure that that moisture’s coming through
without having to set the make-up too much.
I'm just going to put this in the areas of my face.
I’m using a wet sponge. I’m just going to go bit by bit.
I want to make sure that I'm not giving it too much time to set.
I’m just bringing it down to my jawline,
but not too much onto my neck.
And with that same foundation shade,
I'm just going to go over my eyelids and use that as an eyeshadow base.
I don't really like using eyeshadow bases.
I feel like they’re not really a product that’s necessary
when you can just set the foundation on your eyes.
But again, because it is a mattifying foundation
you want to make sure you’re doing this fairly quickly
to avoid it creasing.
The next step is going to be a cream contour.
She's not very tanned in the photo,
so I don't really want to go overboard.
So I’m just going to go in with a really small amount in those areas.
I'm just using that same sponge again.
Another area that I like to contour is my nose.
Her nose goes a bit higher up than mine does,
so I’m just shadowing the bottom of it
to give it the illusion that it goes upwards at the end.
So the next step is going to be a brightening concealer.
I’m just going to put this under my eyes.
I’m using the same sponge again
just because it’s got all the product in it,
so it’s going to blend out the colors evenly.
I just like to put this brightening color just under my eyes
and onto the top of my cheekbone.
And I also use any of the excess on the bridge of my nose
just because this is the part of your face
that the light hits in photography,
which is what the cover was for.
Now that the base make-up is done, I need to set it.
So I’m going to go in with the translucent powder,
and again, the same sponge,
and just press that into the eye area first.
So I’m going to go on the eyelid and then just underneath as well.
Just bringing that up onto the top of my cheekbone as well.
You want to be putting the translucent powder
just anywhere where the make-up is going to collect
in areas around your nose, chin, under your eyes,
eyelids, and forehead.
And then the rest of the face
can just be set with the powder contour products.
I’m just going to go in with quite a light color...
and go upwards, literally into my hairline.
And I’m quite rough when I do the contour,
just because I feel like it blends in better
when you just go for it.
And I’m just going to bring this down my neck a bit...
just to make sure that my face and neck match up.
The next stage is blusher,
and I’m just putting it on my cheekbones
and the bridge of my nose.
I’m then going to go in with a smaller brush
and a darker contour shade,
and I’m going to do the nose contour.
Again, I’m just pulling my nose upwards
by creating that shadow underneath there.
And then just under my lips to create a shadow
when you put on the lipstick later.
Now that the base is done, I’m going to set it all.
This is where I would set my make-up.
I don’t like using setting spray at the end
because I feel like it can ruin whatever eye make-up that you do,
especially if you’re using an eyeliner.
I’m just going to spray my face and then use the damp sponge
just to go over that once.
Don’t go over it more than once.
Otherwise, it’ll get patchy.
So...
That’s the base done, and the eyes are ready for eyeliner.
In the cover photo, she doesn’t have much eyeshadow on
because the main focus is the graphic liner.
But you do want to put an eyeshadow on your eyes
just to create a bit of dimension.
In order to do that, I’m just going to use
a skin tone sort of cream color on my eyes.
Over the whole eyelid, up to my brow bone,
and then just winging it out into my temple.
I’m just going to go in with a little bit of a darker color.
I’m going to get another brush, which is a bit more dense,
and use the same darker shade that we’ve used out of those three,
and just put this underneath my eyes.
Just swiping it across there
and bringing it down slightly
just so that there’s a little bit of shadow.
Her eyes are a lot more round than mine,
so I want to try and make sure that
I’m replicating her face shape and her features
as well as just the make-up.
And that’s it for the eyeshadow.
The eyeliner for the look in this cover is a bit more random
and a bit more editorial,
so we don't really want to worry too much about getting the shape perfect.
I’m going to go in first with a water-activated eyeliner.
You’ve got to be careful, obviously,
not to open your eyes halfway through.
Otherwise, you’re going to ruin the whole look.
I’m just going to use the setting spray that I used on my face.
It’ll mean the eyeliner will stay on longer
than it would if it was just water.
The liner brush I’m using is quite thick.
So this is the bit where you’ve got to concentrate
and actually pay attention to what you're doing.
But again, if it’s not perfect, it doesn’t really matter
because I think the make-up artist was trying to get
that sort of night out, she’s done it herself sort of vibe.
Bring that out into the wing shape.
My eyes are much more hooded than hers are,
so I’m going to have to bring the eyeliner
into the crease a little bit more
so that when I open my eyes, you can see it in the same shape.
She’s got a double wing on this look.
I do actually have a little fan for the eyeliner situation
because I do not want to smudge it.
So, bear with me a second.
The eyeliner goes right in to under her eyebrow,
so I’m just going to go straight in there.
If I’m thinking about the angle of the photo,
obviously, she’s like this,
so I might bring it a bit higher up on the eyelid.
And I’m just going to... and blend that into my eye.
The eyeliner and the lower lash line
only goes into the centre of the bottom lash line,
so I’m just going to quickly just above that,
right into the lashes
just to make sure that the color is right up to the line.
I’m just going to use my finger to blend it into this little gap.
I’m going to go in with an eyeshadow brush
and dip it in some black eyeshadow
and just set what we’ve done,
but also just slightly blend it out a little bit
just to smoke it up in the inner corner.
Also, with water-activated eyeliners,
they can be quite shiny,
so we want to set it with the eyeshadow
to make sure it’s matte.
And then that’s one eye done.
I’m just going to go and quickly do the other side.
The next step is eyebrows.
She hasn’t really got anything going on with her eyebrows.
I’m going to use a clear eyebrow gel
and sort of create the laminated brow effect.
She has quite a feathered brow.
Then once they are in the position that I like,
I just get my finger and literally just press it down.
Her eyebrows are a bit more dense than mine are.
And then that's the eyebrows done.
The next stage in the make-up would be the mascara.
So we’re just going to use quite a light coat of mascara
just to avoid covering too much of the detail in the eyeliner.
I’m just going to go in and curl my eyelashes.
You don’t have to curl your eyelashes.
I know a lot of people don’t like doing that,
but I’ve done it since I was, like, 13.
OK.
I’m going to move on to the lips.
They’ve used quite a mattifying red-pinkie sort of plum tone.
I’m going to use eyeshadow for this
just so that I can get the shade that I want.
I use an eyeshadow brush to do this
just to make sure it’s small enough
that you can get it into that lip shape.
I’m going to go in with the bright red in this palette,
and this is going to be the base color.
She’s got a sharper cupid’s bow than I do,
so I’m just going to angle that brush
and make it a bit stronger than mine is.
That red on its own is quite orangey-pink.
I’m going to go in with a purple and just go over that,
mainly around the edges
just so the red stays in the centre of my lips,
and the darkest part of the lip should be just here.
So now that the base of the color is on,
I’m going to go in with some of the balm
and get a fresh brush
and use that as a way of blending those colors together.
So that’s the finished look.
It’s quite gothic and grungy,
and I feel like the slicked-back hair
with the big eyes, bold lip is very me.
Now that I’ve finished the make-up look,
I’m going to set up, and we’re going to recreate the cover.