Welcome to the X3M TIG channel.
In today's video, I will show you how to weld pipe,
With different gap sizes on each side of the pipe
I got loose 5/32 on the bottom side or 6 o'clock.
Which is the usually ideal gap size for root pass.
But there is no ideal fit-up in the field, so we have to do what we got.
This side is tight 1/8.
And the bottom is tight 3/32.
But I will not use a grinder to open up my gap.
I will show you what to do with your torch instead.
I will weld a bigger gap side first.
So we can open up another side with a smaller gap.
As you can see I didn't put any tack on the side, which will help me to open this side enough to feed my 1/8 rod.
The plan is to open enough room with my torch simply by cutting or melting the edges.
so I can feed 1/8 rod by dipping on the side to side.
Start with a wider gap side first.
I'm using the lay wire technique here.
And wiggling my cup inside the groove.
Root looks good, I will cut the tack and continue on up to 10 o'clock.
Once I put root up to 10 o'clock another side should open enough,
At least that's the plan.
I'm not to worry about the side and the top, only the bottom is the most important part.
I like to position my torch like this on the bottom.
Crank the amps up to 140 if needed.
And side should be good with 130 amps side to side dipping rod.
I like to avoid the lay wire technique on the tight gap.
To prevent your puddle just stick on the edges not to burn them enough.
Don't mind the tight gap in 5G tho, it's a different story.
Unfortunately, these shots of the weld puddle are not clear enough,
As I am a professional welder, not a photographer.
Ok, this is a tight side of the root pass and looks good.
I jumped the boring part of the hot pass and the first couple of fill passes.
As this is around 17 passes joint so I like to make it short as possible.
I'll fil one more pass and start filling g sides.
On this pass, I'm running around 180 Amps.
On the wide bead fill I like to go slow and short steps with my cup.
There is always a chance to trap any tig slag or to miss some spots while filling.
I jumped forward and fill couple more passes on the side and in the middle.
A couple more passes left to flush.
I will fill both sides.
To make it flush and ready for capping.
Once we flush, double-check the entire weld around the pipe.
Fill in some uneven spots, If you got any.
And make sure to run the buffing wheel to clean the weld and remove any debris from your path of travel.
Starting on the bottom is the most crucial part,
Make sure your weld edges are in a straight line, important with the first pass.
And to easier calculate the layout of your second pass.
160 amps on the cap pass.
Control the puddle and focus on the edges.
So far my first pass looks straight.
I grind stop-start to have a smooth transition, or at least less noticeable.
One pass is done.
I'll run a grinder or buffing wheel on the side for the second pass.
The line looks relatively straight on the first pass.
This will be the layout for the second pass.
The main focus here is on both sides of the second pass as it is final,
and if you have any miss-step with your cup, or you turned more left or right.
It will be visible at the end.
The first pass is important because of one straight line on the pipe side.
But final pass in multi-pass capping is crucial,
because you got two lines to make it straight,
and even a gap where you overlapped over the first pass.
Hope you like this video.
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