(slurping)
- What's up, guys?
It's Andy Feliciotti,
and you know I love my DSLR, but sometimes,
you gotta take a photo on your phone,
unfortunately, it's very sad when I have to do it.
So, last week I was heading back from the store
and this woman was taking a photo with her phone,
it was raining and an overcast,
and I was like, what is she taking a photo of?
So, I'm walking down the street,
turn around, sky was red.
What?
My app didn't tell me that it was gonna
be an amazing sunset, so I was pretty blown away.
Took a quick shot on my iPhone
and posted it on Twitter,
where Benjamin replied
and said that I should make video about how I make
everything consistent in my photos.
So, Benjamin, this video's for you.
So, the major thing that makes my photos consistent
is that I mainly shoot sunrise or sunset.
I will say shooting the time of day
will obviously make all your photos look consistent.
But, the second thing that I do in all my photos
is use presets so,
the big thing you can do is make your own presets.
So, the thing I like about presets is that,
I've said presets way too many times already,
but the thing I like about presets
is that you can kind of hover over them in Lightroom
and get ideas for your photos.
So, I kinda have like a preset for sunsets,
I have a preset for different things.
If I'm in a new environment, I'll make a new preset.
So, for example, if I'm out shooting fall-related things
and all the photos are kinda similar,
I'll wanna make a preset for that
and then apply to all the photos
and then kind of adjust from there
so then they get a consistent look.
So, when I took this photo last week,
I used a app called hel-e-dee.
Halide?
But the reason I like this app is 'cause it allows you
to take raw photos.
A lot of apps on iOS lets you take photos using raw.
Even the Lightroom app lets you take raw photos.
I don't really have a preference.
I just use this one.
I think it's a couple bucks on the app store.
But the reason I like it
is 'cause it takes a normal photo, JPEG
and a raw photo.
So, you can see here, this is the JPEG version of the photo
and this is the raw version.
So, raw, it's kind of like an unedited, unmodified photo,
so it gives you a lot more data to work with,
but it's gonna look worse out of the gate.
The reason I like to use this
is because when you bring into Lightroom,
you'll have more data to work with.
Obviously these techniques will work
with normal JPEG photos,
but I like to just start with raw photos,
so they're kinda more consistent to edit with.
And this app is great,
because you can just hit this button right here,
share the raw file,
and then I usually just AirDrop it to my computer
and then bring it into Lightroom CC Classic.
So, what I'll be showing here is Lightroom CC Classic.
A lot of what I'm gonna be doing is in Lightroom CC Classic.
You can do this on Lightroom CC on iOS.
Most of the options in Lightroom are there,
I just like to use this program.
So if you're following along on your phone,
you can just use the Lightroom version on your phone
and the controls are kinda in different spots.
So, you can see here, this is the original photo I took
which looks great right out of the gate.
It did look like the JPEG version when I saw
it in real life.
It was really stunning red.
So, you can see here, on the side, I have a few presets.
I have one for when I was at the beach,
a holiday one, which see,
it looks awesome on here.
A fall one, which doesn't look so awesome.
But this is why it's really important to make presets,
is because you can swipe over everything
and try a bunch of different things
and get ideas of where you want the photo to go.
So, whenever I do sunset or sunrise,
I made the sunrise preset.
And then I'll usually adjust from there.
So, for example, I can see the highlights are blowing out.
I'll bring that down
and that's looking pretty good already.
I'm gonna reset this photo and kind of edit it from scratch
so you can kinda see what I do here.
So, usually I like to bring up the contrast.
Bring up the shadows a little bit.
Lower the highlights.
Usually when you're doing a sunrise or sunset,
the highlights are really out there.
So, if you underexpose the photo, it's better.
So, bring up the whites a little bit
to make that sky look a little more natural.
Bring down the blacks.
Maybe some,
the clarity, as you can see,
looks cool on the ground, I think,
and the sky looks kinda fake.
Maybe I'll put it up a little bit
and then I'll, in the sky, I'll remove the clarity later.
Dehaze, this is probably one of my favorite tools.
I put this up a little bit.
It removes the haziness of photos.
Bump the saturation a bit.
And the tone curve is probably the most important part,
in my opinion, to get consistent-looking photos.
If you're unfamiliar with how the tone curve works,
the bottom left is the darks in the photo,
so see how you, as you rise it, it turns them gray.
A really popular technique now is to raise them.
So, it's kinda like that.
I noticed that this kind of gives you a look where
the camera, if the camera wasn't able to capture
the dark areas, you can kinda negate that
by putting up the darks in the photo.
I usually raise this a bit in my photos.
It's kind of weird though, 'cause you have to click here
a couple times to actually make some anchor points
and then you can actually bring it up without affecting
the rest of the line.
And then if you bring this area down right here,
you can kinda create more contrast.
We'll kinda keep it right here.
But, you can see it kinda removes
the detail of the bus a lot.
So, like in the darker areas, you wanna remove the detail
because if your camera has a lot of noise,
it'll negate that.
We can control the top right here
is more for the highlights.
So, see if I increase this.
Looks kinda nice there in the sky.
So, one of my other favorite tools is the HSL Sliders.
So, these you can kinda control how the colors
are in your photo.
But, before we touch that, I'm gonna scroll down here
and go to the calibration.
I don't believe that this is on the iOS version,
but it's one of my favorite features
on the desktop version.
But, the blue primary, shifting it left,
usually creates a nice look.
See, if you go all the way here, it's kind of like a purple.
All the way right makes it some weird purple.
Okay, so I usually go left a little bit.
Increase the saturation a little more.
Maybe modify these greens.
And just remember to play around.
I usually bump up the slider all the way to C.
What effected this slider's doing,
makes it easier to kinda understand what's happening.
Think I'll leave the red one alone.
Let me straighten this
with the auto straightener in Lightroom.
And I always like to remove chromatic abrasions
and profile corrections.
I think, usually, when you import an iPhone photo,
it doesn't really work as well as a DSLR,
so that doesn't really do much.
Increase the sharpness.
I love doing that.
The split toning, so, the split toning,
you can add colors in.
So for example, if you want to add a certain color
to the highlights or into the shadows,
so, for example, I can add a little green in the shadows
as you can see here.
Maybe a little bit.
Then the highlights,
maybe a little yellow in the highlights.
Kinda make it more stunning looking.
So, I think it is a bit red right now,
so we're gonna lower some of the saturation
of just the reds, as you can see right here.
Oranges, let's play with this a little bit.
I like the oranges, so I'm gonna keep that up little bit.
Yellows, it doesn't really affect it much.
Put it down a little bit.
I think the blue should be desaturated a little bit.
It kinda takes away the blue sky there.
Yeah, it's looking good.
Now, after making all these adjustments,
I usually like to add a few radial filters.
I think that's looking pretty good
so let's add one to the middle here.
And, I usually, you can hold shift
and hit down on the exposure
and that'll actually make it darker
and then hit invert.
So, I like to add this because you can see here
if I delete it, it kinda creates
like a zoned-in look on the photo.
I usually do this in all my photos.
And then I'm gonna add another one in the sky
that removes that clarity that we added earlier.
See, it kind of makes it look more magical.
Oh, that was the dehaze, but yeah,
I usually like to lower the dehaze
and clarity to make it look softer.
Increase the exposure a little bit.
Maybe I'll do another radial filter that highlights the sky
and the ground where I want people to look in the photo.
Think that's a little much.
I'm gonna lower it a little bit.
Maybe increase the shadows here,
so you can see more of the building and bus.
Yeah, I think that's looking good.
Play with the overall exposure.
Maybe I'll lower it one notch.
So after you have a look that you like,
you can actually save the preset,
and once you save the preset,
I like to apply it to a few photos
to actually see how it plays out.
So, if I have a few sunset and sunrise photos,
I'll actually apply it to a few of them,
look how it looks.
Maybe it needs some tweaking on another photo.
I'll tweak it a little bit,
put it back on the original photo
and try to make a preset that's good for multiple photos
and update the preset as I go along.
And then you'll have just a preset you can use anytime.
So, after you have that, you can just hover over
and get ideas for your next photo.
As you can see here,
I have Christmas photos that I also shot on my iPhone.
So these are all within the same day,
so I actually made a preset for these after I edited them
and just applied them to them all.
I think this is important
if you have a scene that looks similar
and then you got a consistent look.
Then after that, I just export it
and then AirDrop it to my phone
and then it's ready to post to wherever you wanna post.
So, I hope this tutorial was helpful, guys
and yeah, have a great day
and remember to follow me on Instagram.
My username is someguy
and on Twitter, my username is sup, S-U-P.
(slurping)
Please leave questions and comments below.