This is my quick-set tenon jig.
The cool thing about this jig is I can do a simple flip of a lever
to cut both cheeks of a tenon
very repeatably and accurately.
But when I first built this jig back in 2008
I didn't yet make a lot of video so I'll build it again
just to show you how.
I've got some of the specific hardware gathered here.
Mainly this steel rod
with bushings that slide on a very precisely 1/2 inch diameter.
A couple of knobs
and bolts. A dial indicator
and the main panel knob. And besides that I just need wood
and wood screws.
And here I've got my plans printed out.
Got templates for all the plywood bits.
And then here's templates for the hardware bits
and the rest of the drawings I haven't printed out yet.
So just working at it with the plywood that I've got
How to lay out the pieces of wood
to cut it with minimum scrap.
Plywood parts all cut out and now for the hardware parts.
I've got the printout here. And I got a stack of maple
that should be more than enough.
I printed out an extra copy of this plan here so I could cut these templates out
and still use this one to track the parts.
And the next thing is to cut these fingers in here.
That's easiest done with the templates on the band saw. But before I do that
I need to drill a hole for the shaft to go through here.
I've just drilled a test hole
to make sure this shaft fits in there tightly.
These holes are gonna be for this shaft.
And I need to have just a snug fit.
So I tried some of my different half inch drills
and some of them are really quite loose.
But this hole here makes for a very snug fit so
that's the drill I'm gonna use.
This shaft is gonna slide in these bronze bushings.
And the bushings need to go into holes in here.
And I'm gonna drill that with a Forstner bit. But I have to be really careful
to make sure the alignment is correct.
Last time I had it just a little bit crooked and that really made things bind.
So what I'm doing is I keep rotating the piece
as I drill it.
So that if the drill is off in a bit of a direction
it will cancel when I continue drilling.
For the bolts that fit in here in my plans I've got Carriage bolts
which have got this square part of the head.
And I just have to drill a cavity her but
I've got some of these jig bolts that are meant to go into T-Slots
And these are even better.
But I need to cut a different cavity for it here.
These oblong bolt heads are great
because it keeps them from spinning if I tighten it out on the other side.
But there are many ways to screw up a jig like this.
I initially marked the indentations on the wrong side.
Fortunately I caught myself before I actually drilled them out.
Before I start attaching stuff to the top of this base
I need to attach this to the bottom. And I'm gonna cut a dado in the bottom.
And this is a miter slot rail. I actually just made this one.
For more details on how to make one that fits precisely
please see my video on making a small table saw sled.
Now the base of this jig is supposed to be about
6 and a half centimeters
from the blade.
So if I just move it to about here.
And then set the fence to it.
That tells me where this needs to be and so now I can mark
the location of the slot.
Let's see how those bushings line up.
Looks like it comes in a bit too high on this way
so it needs to tilt this way here.
And for this one
Also too high so that one needs to tilt inwards as well.
That's a bit better.
These 3 blocks are gonna support the carriage that goes on top of here.
And that carriage has got a base
and a front face
and this brace here.
And that's as far as I'll take it in this video.
I'll finish this jib in my next video.