What's up guys welcome back
In this video we're going to take a look at how to paint the rubble on this post apocalyptic
water base.
I use very simple techniques to get a convincing and organic effect.
If you're interested in seeing the process for the rest of the base there's a 40 minute
video available on my patreon feed as well as a highly detailed 60 page PDF guide for
the little miniature itself.
To start off we'll be using zenithal priming.
To do that you want to first prime your model with some black, any black will do, I just
used some Games Workshop Chaos Black spray.
Then when that was dry I sprayed it again, with some Tamiya Super Fine white, spraying
it from above at about a 60 degree angle.
And that gives you this nice starting point where a lot of the details have already been
picked out for you, and the rubble has this great speckled pattern to it.
To begin painting we'll first mix up a light green tone by mixing some Scale Colour Black
Forest Green into some White Sands and we'll mute it down slightly by adding a very small
amount of black, just enough to take the edge off it.
Thin this down to a glaze concistency with a bit of water.
Use this to glaze over the various surfaces of your big chunks of rubble.
If you've watched any of my other basing videos you'll probably have seen me doing this before,
but if you haven't the idea is to use the glaze to merely tint the colours of your surfaces
leaving all that texturing detail from the primer showing through underneath.
This means you wont have to do so much work to create a realistic texture, because you
already have one, you're just giving it some colour.
In order to not lose the detailing, you're going to want to do this over a few thin layers
so that you retain all the speckling from the primer.
It's much better to build the colour up over 3 or 4 thin layers than try to do it in one
and risk losing that interesting texture.
Bear in mind you're going to be adding other colours on top of this so try not to don't
overdo it.
You might find you start to doubt yourself at this early stage because your masonry is
going to look quite odd just with this minty green on top.
But push those negative thoughts aside, this is actually just an underpainting in order
to help set the tone of the overall colour.
To continue we'll introduce a new colour which we'll make by mixing a little black into some
Scale Colour Antares giving us a nice deep red colour and again, just like before, we'll
thin it down to a glaze consistency with a bit of water.
Glaze this over the sides of your rubble pieces or anywhere that you would have more of a
shadow.
So on the underside of overhanging pieces or into any little crevices or holes in the
surface of the bits of masonry.
Don't worry if you think it looks a bit weird at this early stage, you're still just giving
the surfaces some subtle colour, the next step will radically change everything bringing
that red and green together giving you quite an interesting effect.
If you like you can also add some shading on areas where the rubble is tilted at an
angle.
First placing the glaze at the bottom of the area like this. Then quickly switching to
a clean, damp brush and feathering out the edge using a smooth back and forth motion
to draw that glaze up over the rest of the surface.
Notice the way it gets thinner the further away you get from where you started, creating
a fairly smooth transition.
So essentially what we're doing here is using two complimentary colours to give an initial
impression of our highlights and shadows.
The dark red representing our shadows and the lighter green our highlights.
If you have a look at a colour wheel, complimentary colours sit directly opposite each other on
the wheel and using them in combination like this create a lot of contrast and tends to
give you a more interesting effect than if you were to just use a darker version of your
original colour.
As I said it will look a bit odd until we add our next colour over the top, remember
this is still basically an underpainting.
To continue you'll need a nice dark brown tone.
I used some Valejo Dark Brown wash as I like the way it behaves and it has a really nice
colour and finish when it dries, plus you can thin it down without it reacting weirdly.
Which I'll do right now, just adding a bit of water to it so I have more control over
the coverage.
Glaze this over the whole surface of each piece of rubble.
You'll see that this ties the red and green together and end up having those subtle green
and red tones showing through underneath the brown giving you this very natural appearance.
Also, because this is a wash the brown will pick out a lot of the smaller details you
might not have noticed before.
So you'll start to see all the little scratches and surface texture appearing giving you a
much more natural finish to the masonry.
The rubble still has a green tint to it but you can see it's a much more organic green,
the kind you would expect to see on a piece of stone that's been left out in the rain
for quite some time.
Just like your initial pass of colour you're going to want to apply this over a couple
of thin layers in order to get the full effect.
The more layers you add the darker your rubble will appear, so be careful that you don't
add too many or you'll start to ruin the effect.
2 or 3 thin applications of this is going to be more than enough.
If you want to add a bit more detail to the rubble, you can pick out a few edge highlights.
Mix a bit of White sands into the original green base colour, then mute it down with
a tiny bit of black just to grey it slightly.
Alright and we'll just use that to pick out a few of the edges, maybe this one here down
And we'll hit a few of the pesky wee blighters over here on this bigger chunk.
Here, ye can't say it like that!
What? What are you talking about?
If your going to say 'pesky wee blighters'
You've got to lean into it and make it extra Scottish!
Here, listen and learn pal.
(ahem)
Pesky... Wee... Blighters.
Right, now you try.
Oh for God sake
I said! Now you try!
pesky wee blighters
The hell wiz that, it's not pesky wee blighters. It's Pesky.... Wee.. Blighters.
Right, again!
Fine.. Pesky wee blighters! Is that better?
Hmm yeah, it's better, right yeah, better. But once more, this time put some ooomph behind it!
Pesky Wee Blighters!
Again!
Pesky Wee Blighters!
YES!
PESKY!
WEE!
BLIGHTERS!
FREEEEEEEEEEEDOOOOOOOOOM!
It seems my work here is done.
So as I was saying, I'm just hitting the very edges of the bits of masonry .
Opps, wee mistake there, I'll just take that back off with a clean brush. If you ever make
a mistake while you're painting, don't be scared to wipe it off with a finger tip or
a wet brush.
It's pretty easy to do as long as you catch it fast enough.
You usually have a short window to correct errors before the paint dries.
It's much better to correct it while the paint is still wet, it becomes a bit harder to fix
once it dries.
And a little bit here on this bigger chunk
So I'm just hitting the very edge of these bits of masonry.
When you're doing these edge highlights, don't try to make them a solid line, you tend to
get a better effect if you just hit little bits here and there.
Just remember this is meant to be a piece of broken concrete so the edges would be quite
rough, you're not going to have lots of sharp edges, so your highlights should reflect that.
You can see how well that red and green is working now.
It gives you this really interesting and subtle colour variation to the concrete.
If you were to just do that brown wash on it's own you wouldn't get nearly as compelling
a result, it would just be a flat brown colour, you'd still have that nice speckled pattern
to the surfaces but colourwise it would be really boring to look at.
I'm quite happy with the overall effect.
I'll do a bit more on that on the main one seeing as it's going to be the most prominent.
And maybe a bit on these off to the side, picking out the corners there.
You don't have to do every single one, just hit a few areas where you think it would look interesting.
Actually you don't have to do these highlights at all, but it does help to give the broken
slabs a bit more definition.
You could also do this with a gentle drybrush if you're feeling lazy, but I prefer to paint
them on normally as it gives me a bit more control over what's happening.
It really is relatively straightforward to do so I hope you try it out yourself and see
what you can come up with.
Alright, I think that's everything, thanks as always for all your support.
Thanks again.
Bye for now...