Hi I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
Electric stoves use small heat switches to control the power to the heating elements.
A faulty heat switch can prevent the element from heating,
or can even cause the burner to stay on high.
In this episode, first we'll learn how it all works,
and then we'll test the switch with a multimeter.
Finally we'll learn how to install a new switch in a ceramic or conventional stove.
Let's get started.
Electric stoves are pretty simple at a base level.
When electricity passes through the heating element,
the resistance in the material generates heat.
Each burner is on a separate circuit and is controlled by an infinite heat switch.
When you turn the dial the switch closes, letting 120 volts
travel through both sides of the element.
This provides the necessary 240 volts.
One side of the switch will remain closed which will power the cooktop indicator light.
The other side of the switch will open, and disconnect power once the element heats up.
It will cycle on and off to maintain the set level of heat.
The switch can be tested for continuity with a multimeter.
A continuity test will determine if there is a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
Over time the contacts can warp or might not close properly,
preventing power from reaching the element.
Without continuity the element will not heat.
Some ceramic stoves have dual and triple ring heating elements,
these work in the same way, but will have an extra set of terminals for each additional coil.
We'll show how to test these as well.
Some issues however can't be determined with a multimeter.
If the contacts are warped or fused together, then it can cause the element to stay on high,
even on the lowest heat setting.
In this case you'll have to install a new switch.
Now if you're not sure if the switch is causing the problem,
then watch our troubleshooting videos linked below.
To begin you might need a screwdriver, a nut driver, pliers, gloves, and a multimeter.
Heat switches come in a variety of configurations.
To find a match enter your model number on the AMRE Supply website.
From there you'll see a parts breakdown with the exact replacement parts listed for your model.
Always be safe, and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges, it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room, go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord.
Now slide the range all the way out, so you have plenty of room to work.
On the back of the oven is a cover panel.
Some models have a small panel near the top, and a larger panel near the bottom.
Now remove the screws.
The panel will likely be sitting on several hooks.
Simply lift up to remove the panel.
First we'll test a switch for a standard surface element,
then we'll test a switch for a dual ring element.
To remember where each wire goes, it's best to take a picture for reference.
Some models have individual wires,
while other models group multiple wires with a hard plastic connector.
Now disconnect the wires.
On the switch you should see a few terminals,
marked L for line, H for heater, and P for an indicator light.
Reach to the front and turn the dial to the maximum heat setting.
Set the multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Now check for continuity between the L1 and H1 terminals.
The multimeter should display a reading between 0 and 1 ohm.
Then check from L2 to H2.
If there is no reading and no continuity in either test,
then the switch is faulty and will need to be replaced.
If you're testing a switch for a dual ring element, then terminals will be different.
If you see an extra H1 terminal, then test for continuity between L1 and H1A, then L1 and H1B.
Now test between L2 and H2.
On some models the power terminals are labeled P1 and P2.
The heating circuit terminals are 2, 4, and 4A.
In this case you'll test between P2 and 4, and then P2 and 4A.
Finally test between P1 and 2.
If there is no continuity across any of the pairings, then the switch has failed
and will need to be replaced.
Now if the switch passed all the tests, then you'll have to test the heating element.
You can see how to do this in the video linked below.
If needed, disconnect the wires.
Go to the front and pull the dial off the switch.
Now remove the screws, and slide the switch out of the mount.
If the new switch has a longer stem than the old one,
then use the pliers to snap off the top to the right length.
Insert the new switch, and line up the holes.
Now replace the mounting screws.
Align the flat side of the dial to the flat part of the stem, and push it into place.
Now reconnect the wires.
Align the back panel, and replace the screws.
Now plug in the cord, and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your stove.
For more troubleshooting videos on water heaters,
furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help you can call or visit an AMRE location to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.